Constructing an esright massage recliner chair by yourself is a daunting task. At the same time constructing a pergola doesn’t require some specific skills or tones of time. Impress your visitors with this stylish detail above your front door or gate.
QUICK PROJECT GUIDE
Hard Labour: 7/10 (an extra pair of hands may be necessary)
Skill Level: 5/10 (requires the use of power tools)
Time Needed: About four hours (excluding drying time)
Shopping List:
- two 2400mm x 96mm x 32mm meranti planks cut to 1800mm and 540mm to make up the 1800mm x 600mm framework;
- nine 2400mm x 44mm x 22mm meranti planks cut to 800mm sections for the slats;
- one 1800mm x 96mm x 12mm meranti plank to cover the coach screws;
- one 1800mm x 44mm x 32mm meranti plank for the support(s)
Other Items:
- seven 100mm x 10mm coach screws
- seven 10mm galvanized washers
- seven 60mm x 12mm wall plugs ± eighty 8mm x 75mm cut screws
- 10mm meranti dowel
- waterproof wood glue
- UV-resistant wood treatment product
Tools:
- pencil measuring tape, spirit level handsaw and miter box miter saw (optional; to cut angles);
- cordless drill and 10mm drill bit combination countersinking bit (or 3mm countersinking bits);
- electric impact drill and 5mm, 10mm, 12mm masonry bits hammer;
- shifting spanner or socket spanner ladder(s) and electrical extension cord paintbrush medium grit sandpaper
Project Notes
This pergola was specifically made to complement this front door. The size, dimensions, and positioning, therefore, relate to architectural elements unique to this home. It is thus very important to consider:
a) the height or placement of the pergola above the door/gate;
b) the length and breadth in relation to the door as well as entire façade;
c) the positioning (centered above door opening or placed to one side);
d) other architectural elements (such as the eaves or light fitting featured here) that may impact on the dimensions, structure or the aesthetic of the pergola.
With the above in mind, the step instructions below refer to a pergola measuring 1800mm x 600mm x ±140mm. Remember that wood is available in standard sizes. Find out what is available at your nearest hardware or home improvement store before designing any wooden structure.
Counting the Slats
To work out the number of slats needed, as well as their correct placement, first, decide on the approximate spacing you want between them. We aimed for gaps roughly the same as the height of the slats (44mm). Divide the overall length by this number (44mm) plus the width of one slat (22mm). This will give the number of slats required (1800mm divided by 44mm+22mm = 27 slats).
Multiply this figure by the slat width (27 x 22mm = 594mm), subtract this total from the total length of the pergola (1800 – 594mm = 1206mm) and divide this by the number of spaces between the slats (27 slats will have 26 spaces between them) so, (1206mm divided by 26 = 46mm). The spaces between the 27 slats over 1800mm should, therefore, be 46mm each. Got it?
Get Started
Decide on the pergola’s position. We placed ours so that the bottom of the structure would be roughly 100mm above the door. Now mark the positions along the plank (1800mm length that will be fixed to the wall) where the coach screws will be placed. Space these about 200mm apart, in a zigzag manner, along with the length. Use the cordless drill and 10mm drill bit to drill holes at these marks. Hold the plank against the wall (you will need an extra pair of hands here) and use a spirit level to ensure the correct position, while you transpose the positions of these holes onto the wall. Use the electric impact drill and drill bits to drill 60mm-deep holes at these marks to create holes for the wall plugs. Push the plugs into the holes.
TIP: For easier drilling, first use the 5mm masonry drill bit followed by the 10mm masonry drill bit and finally the 12mm drill bit. Also, wrap insulation tape around the drill bit, 60mm from the tip. This will serve as a basic depth guide and let you know when to stop drilling.
2 Now construct the basic framework. Use a combination square (or a specialized 90 clamp, as shown here) to ensure that planks are joined at perfect right angles. Use the cordless drill and combination-countersinking bit to drill three holes at each joint. Use the waterproof wood glue and 75mm cut screws to join these together. Drill the countersunk holes deeper than is necessary to allow the holes to be plugged with wooden dowels instead of wood filler.
3 Cut small 5mm sections of 10mm dowel using the handsaw. Spread a small amount of wood glue around each before tapping these firmly into the holes with the hammer. Once the glue has dried, use the medium grit sandpaper to sand the tops off any exposed dowel sections so that these are flush with the planks.
4 Position the slats onto the framework and fix in place using the 75mm cut screws. Remember to first drill pilot holes, then countersink these. A combination-countersinking bit will do both at once. We cut the ends of our slats at 25o for a unique look.
TIP: Cut two 46mm spacers from offcut pieces of wood to facilitate the correct spacing of the slats while you fix these into place.
5 Fix the framework firmly to the wall using the seven 100mm x 10mm coach screws and washers, as shown. Make sure that the framework sits perfectly level during this process. You will need to enlist help for this step. Use the shifting spanner or socket spanner to tighten these firmly in place.
6 OPTIONAL
Covering the exposed heads of the coach screws with a 96mm x 12mm wide plank will ensure a neater overall appearance. This plank can be held in place with a couple of screws fixed through from the top of the slats.
7 Use the 44mm x 32mm meranti plank to create a brace on one or either side of the pergola to add extra support to the structure. Fix to the wall with wall plugs and screws, and to the pergola’s inside top framework with cut screws. TIP: You will need to drill pilot holes at right angles to the braces in order to fix these to the wall. Remember to allow for these holes to be filled with a dowel for a neat finish.
8 Lightly sand the entire structure and coat with a good quality UV-resistant wood-treatment product.